Me and You and a Dog Named Boo: 49th Anniversary Trip to Mazatlan

I guess we must have been missing the road because suddenly, in discussing what to do for our anniversary, the idea of a road trip appealed to us both. Although air travel in Mexico is very cheap and tolls going south can get quite pricey (to Mazatlan tolls amounted to $40 each way), we have Boo as an excuse for a road trip, but, honestly, we love seeing the country. We thought of Copper Canyon, which is closer, but it's winter weather up there in the mountains east of here. We've been to Alamos and we are saving Guadalajara to do sometime when we can either get a dog sitter (yikes!) or feel like another road trip. So, Mazatlan is south on good roads (supposedly-though we ran into lots of potholes and 2 way streets that should be one way). It is about 10 hrs by car, which for us is a two day trip. We stopped to get our "All Mexico Pass" in Empalme and were on our way on the 9th of December. We thought we'd spend the first night in Topolobampo but decided on a "dog friendly" hotel in downtown Los Mochis. I don't think we'd choose either place again, if there was another alternative!

Most of the highway travels through agricultural land. I would have loved to see what they were growing but I didn't recognize any of the plantings. It's obvious that they get water much more than we do further north.

We ended up staying in Los Mochis, which is where the train departs for Copper Canyon. It seems like a pretty industrial city-not much to recommend stopping here.

In Los Mochis, we stayed at the El Fuente Hotel. It actually wasn't bad.
It cost $36 which included room and a breakfast that was fantastic. We
even got the palapa outside all to ourselves for dinner because we
had Boo-our choice to be outside anyway! The room was spartan
and clean but nothing to write home about!

This was my breakfast! I went in first while Jim showered and packed
the car. I couldn't finish half of it and it was fantastic. Jim didn't
even order anything-just ate half of mine.

We decided to try to stay at what was advertised as a small, boutique, dog friendly B and B in Topolobampo. Well, we wandered the streets with Siri and Wayz helping us but there was no B and B at the address it was advertised to be. Jim was not happy with the narrow streets and when the two decent restaurants we wanted to go to were closed on Mondays, we took a quick look around and ended up back in Los Mochis (above).

A few pictures from Topolobampo (where the ferry leaves for the Baja):

Looks right out of the Girl from the Sea
of Cortez

We survived potholes and made it around Culiacan which is known as the home of the Sinaloan Cartel. We did see a bunch of different kinds of police (maybe 10-12 cars) and lots of people walking around like they were being checked out, but no one stopped us.

Mazatlan, however, is known as "The Pearl of the Pacific". It is the beginning of the tropical Pacific Mexico. It is famous for its tourist attractions but also has an interesting history, a rich cultural tradition and also has a healthy economy, based on tourism, sportfishing and manufacturing. Human settlement here goes back before recorded history. The main artery in town hugs the shore. We are at the southern end, in the old town, where every day Mexican life goes on around us. People hang out in the jardin, called the Plaza Machado, go to the market and churches nearby, walk the streets and the malecon along the ocean. Many Mexican families can be found in the park across the street from our B and B.

We pulled in and the staff came out to move a cone so that Jim could
park right on the road in front of our B and B, Casa de Leyandas (House
of Legends). There is a bar and restaurant attached, so you can see where
we ended up after a long day driving Mexican roads.

The bartender, Eduardo ( I think; Jim is the one who remembers everyone's
name), is making a complimentary Don Pedro Reposada Margarita,
which hit the spot!

We are toasting our making it here! Right across the street is the art museum. We are very happy to be in the Centro Historico, which is so different than the Golden Zone about a mile up the road, which is full of big modern hotels and lots of turistas! Of course, we do recognize that we are them! BUT, We love the local flavor here! And, see that great parking space!?

Our room-upon learning of our anniversary, they upgraded us to this
wonderful suite! Those are leather masks above the bed. Mazatlan is
known for them. In front of the bed is another little living room area,
which can't be seen from here.

A Romeo and Juliet bathroom-what could be more perfect!

The view from the terrace outside our room. We are only 1/2 block from
the ocean.

Where we had the most scrumptious breakfasts made to order!

Another patio, overlooking a lovely small park where families visit and
play with their kids-a great people-watching place!

Another gorgeous room-We ended up buying one of those bed runners
(I'm sure they have a name but I don't know it yet). So Mexico!

Really popular kid play area in the park across the street.
The ground is covered with something nice and safe and
kind of spongy.

We spent some time in the Museum of Art across the street where they had an exhibit of Antonio Saenz, the most famous Sinaloan artist who is from Mazatlan. He depicts daily life in the city. I loved the following two by him.

They also had some unique flow art.

The beach across the street is Olas Altas, it is very quaint, lined with cafes and easily accessible. It seems very peaceful and quiet and doesn't appear to be at all touristy. This used to be the only resort beach in town. It is not as pretty as the white sand beaches in the Gold Zone, but it has character!

The shield of Mazatlan

All along the boardwalk (which is not made of boards, but very stone/tile-like) are statues, depicting different aspects of Mazatlan life.

Doesn't it look like Miami or something in the background? That's
the Gold Zone, Zona Dorado.

They say the waters are rough here (our beach area) and the current is strong.
I believe them!

And, these young men dive for tips!!!!! You think they can't possible make it.....

You can't even watch....

And then, miracle of miracles, they land in the water and they do survive to scoop up their tips!

We are pretty awful at selfies!

A lovely young girl getting her picture taken for her
Quinceanera (15th birthday)
What do you think that young man is thinking?!!

We spent most of our time in the jardin, which they call the Plaza Machado. Lots of people hang out there day and night; there are stalls of souvenirs and trinkets; it is lined with cafes and at this time of year, there are gorgeous Christmas decorations.

The theater

I love these spiral Christmas trees. I must find someone
to make me a small one.

Cocktails at Mr. Lionso

Singing Sabor a Mi

Love the uplights on the streets of the neighborhood

Tired Mayan dancers with their phones

We spent a little time at the market nearby but it was so hustling and bustling that we lost sight of the calm that had overcome us at the Plaza and headed back towards there after a short look-see.

Then, seemingly miraculously, we came across the Cathedral Basilica de la Purisima Concepcion. It is built on an original Indian temple. Today is the 12th of December, Lady of Guadalupe Day in Mexico. Families with young children bring them here to have their pictures taken inside the Cathedral and also at ready-made portrait studios set up outside. It was such a special day to see all these families, their babies and small children-heartwarming!

This is the main altar with an image of the city's patron saint, the Virgin of the Immaculate Conception.

I lit that little blue candle for my parents. I love this tradition, too!

This is an especially beautiful shrine to the Virgin Mary.

These young people were singing and playing instruments.

I was surprised to see a star of
David in the stained glass arches
above. Apparently, many Jews
helped in the building of this church.
This is the locals way of thanking them.

We made it back to the Plaza and stopped at this interesting place called El Tunel. There is a small narrow walkway back to an inside restaurant. Of course, Boo likes it outside with us.

Great margaritas and people watching
Lots of cruise ship people stopped and asked us for restaurant
suggestions or where to find this or that. Are we looking like
locals after 6 years in Mexico????!

A cruise ship was in town-they certainly are recognizable!

That night we went up to the rooftop bar at the Best Western Hotel near us.

My God! Can you believe the size of that cruise ship!!! No wonder so
many tourists were in town today!

Of course, Boo was welcome and enjoyed the view. These windows were open-certainly
would never pass for code in the US. Gave me the chills! Still does!

Afterwards, we had the most wonderful dinner of Molcajete at Pedro and Lola on the Plaza.

Molcajete-this one with steak and nopales in a cheese sauce.
This was to die for!

Not the best picture of us but it certainly was a fabulous setting, right
at the Plaza Machado!

That night we came back to the hotel and sat on the roof and totally got into the fascinating cloud formations in the dark which the city lights were illuminating!

Just walking the streets with Boo, admiring the neighborhood....

Entrance to our B and B and the restaurant and bar

We decided we just had to take a ride in a pulmonia, a small, open air taxi. They are unique to Mazatlan, so we headed out along the shoreline to Zona Dorado, just to say we saw it.

Our ride

A margarita at Pancho's just to say we did

And, back to the beach near our place....

And, guess who enjoys it the most!

Holy cow, this makes me so very happy! Almost as good as watching
your kids enjoy the ocean for the first time!

Home for showers, a drink on the rooftop, dinner out at Topolo's. Another miracle: we bought tickets to the Christmas Gala at the Angela Peralta Theater, forgetting we had no arrangements for Boo. Experience has taught us that he causes alot of commotion if left alone in a hotel room. We asked the owners if there was anyone on the staff who might be hired to dogsit Boo. They said, no problemo-the staff would take care of him. No cost-but, of course, we gave them a great tip.

Christmas carols being sung in the Plaza on our way to dinner

Liked this idea- Pico de Gallo made at the table in a
molcajete. Jim, of course wrote down the recipe. I
have to remember to bring down my molcajete.

Topolo's-a great restaurant where I had luscious tequila shrimp and
Jim had the pork shank. It was a treat from Erin and Todd for our
anniversary! Thank you, guys!

Our usher, in the spirit of things, at the theater

The Angela Peralta theater is just lovely. Angela was an outspoken, strong woman who was a world-renowned opera
diva. She sang in the opera houses of Milan and Mexico City. She and 76 of her 80 member company died of yellow fever in the 1883 Mazatlan epidemic. This theater is dedicated to her.

The show was absolutely extraordinary! The Gala was called "Un Sueno de Navidad", A Christmas Dream. There were over 350 performers from different schools of arts, involving ballet, contemporary dance, folkloric dance, theater and musical orchestra. The first part of the show was focused on classic American Christmas songs and the second part on Mexican traditions, particularly the traditional posadas. I love Mexico-tickets were $10 a person!!!!

We decided to roll through Los Mochis on the way back and take a little detour to El Fuerte (another place where you can take the train into the Copper Canyon.) We stayed at the same hotel as last year, Posada de Hidalgo, where Zorro appears every night (I met him in my pjs on the way to the main desk to discuss a noise problem-he looked me up and down and proclaimed something in Spanish-I'd like to think it was, "oo la lah" but it was probably, "crazy old lady".